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Big Clumsy Fingers

4/13/2017

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Never thought I'd consider myself to have big clumsy fingers. I was the one who made the teeniest of Barbie clothes as a younger crafter! However I've come across something that nearly broke me!

Right after completing the bulk of the dress for "L" I needed a non-sewing crafty break. I also came down with a nasty head cold that kept me away from work for a couple days. Thanks to Pinterest and some quick searching on Amazon I discovered Japanese dollhouse room kits that were adorable! And 1/24th scale! And only $15-$20! With lights! How could I resist?

​The instructions weren't available online, so I had no real idea of how difficult these kits might be, or just how much of the necessary supplies were actually included in them.  But in my excitement I just clicked purchase!  A few weeks later, direct from China, a box appeared in the mail.
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It showed all three models available in this design line - "Retro American". Does retro mean 1980s?
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My chosen model was called "Happy Times."
Hmm... There seems to be more Japanese text than I first suspected.  Maybe the back will have more information?
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Nope. More nice pictures, but no more information. Certainly not in English.
This was going to be quite the adventure! I just prayed and hoped the instructions would be in English.
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Uhhhh...Not looking hopeful here...
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The warnings in red concerned me a bit...
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See those instructions for making roses? The instructions were far bigger than the roses themselves. It was a maddening few hours to put 5 of them together.
Sigh.  Still no luck.  However, I was saved by two things: numbers still looked the same, and everything was step-by-step with pictures. Even the individual pieces were listed in the instruction booklet, and not pictured here was a fairly large piece of plain paper with patterns printed on it for all the other pieces that needed to be cut, like the fabric for the couch cushions.

I think I stumbled along fairly well, and this kit was advertised to be customize-able!  Make your own!  DIY! So I wasn't too worried about getting a few details wrong, and all the important pieces were already cut to size and painted so I couldn't mess that up too much.

I did finally find an English translation for instructions to a different kit in a different design line, but from the same company with LED lights and optional music box.  The warnings in red just turned out to be general electrocution warnings since little kids could be doing this kit.  However, a shock from two AAA batteries didn't worry me.

I did agonize over what craft glue to use, since they recommended a brand called UHU.  It seemed to be only manufactured in the Philippines.  After some MORE internet researching on a few discussion boards I learned this kit just needed flexible non water based glue, like clear Liquid Nails or E6000.  I already had a tube of E6000, so I could begin! 
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Ta da! I had such a sense of accomplishment!
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The LED lights add such a fun, warm glow. :)
The English instructions I found online earlier had estimated two days to complete that kit, and I assumed it would be similar with this one. However, I think something got lost in translation. This kit took around 48 hours of working time to complete, not two days of intermittent crafting.  If I hadn't been home sick this would have taken a whole week of work nights to do.  

Also, the glue had plenty of fumes.  I highly recommend working in an area with a window and/or a fan.  I was stopped up with my head cold, so I didn't really notice until things got bad.  Take a lesson from me though!

​And now for some cute interior shots:
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Of the framed art and photos, my favorite is the one above the fireplace that says, "Oh how I love todays."
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The bowl of flowers has 3 roses because I got frustrated and ended there.
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This dog character is in each house in this series. So cute! I would definitely travel with him anywhere!
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Welcome in through the front door!
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A view from the window above the couch, flowers included.
I noticed in the suggested decorating that many places where there were blooms of flowers an even number was preferred to an odd number. Is this an East vs. West thing?  I know I've been told odd numbers are better, so that's what I did, mostly.

Another quirk to this kit: it is very definitely only meant to be viewed from one angle.  In fact, the upgraded kits include a Plexiglas shell you can glue around it to keep dust out while you admire it from a shelf. 

I think the boxed flowers are there only meant to be viewed through the window from the inside.  The battery kit for the lights is cleverly hid in the space behind the fireplace, and behind the china hutch is space for a music box!  However, I didn't get the deluxe kit. :(  Cue ebay listings!  This music box, is, of course a special size.  Hopefully $8 and a few weeks from now I can install it.
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The music box will go into that hole in the far right. I purposefully didn't glue the china hutch in place so I can still get the music box in...
Until then I'll leave you with this warm and welcoming shot and the knowledge that I have already ordered another kit... 
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A dress for L - part 3

4/11/2017

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The pretty part!  Yay!  After finding my way through a winter storm worth of white fabric, now comes the pretty purple silk georgette. 

Well, almost first.

First is the lining, interlining, and boning.
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Drawing on the lining again with fabric markers and a ruler! oh joy!
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Then I put the interlining and lining together and sew along the lines...it's sewing 101 all over again...
The pattern for the boning placement has very little to do with historical accuracy, and much to do with the most comfortable and effective placement.  Honestly, for "L"'s petite frame much of this could have been eliminated.  Had the time period we're shooting for been 50 years earlier I may have been able to do away with boning altogether.
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The georgette fabric has a full interfacing fused to it for structure. Here it is sewn to the lining. the front panel is all done, awaiting the final hand stitching.
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And here I've skipped ahead to it all turned right side out, pressed, button holes in place, shoulders sewn, and laced up.
I was a little worried that the neckline looked a bit high, but once again "L" is not shaped like me, and she requested a higher neckline.  It turned out fine, however weird it looked at this stage to me. 

An important note for sewing ease: I left the bottom open and the zip tie boning out at this point so I could wrestle it under my sewing machine with the least amount of fuss possible.  It is after all 3 layers of fabric and one of interfacing.

I used button holes since they would ultimately be hidden anyway.  I hate metal grommets unless absolutely necessary.  On a bodice they tend to pull themselves out of their fabric holes, no matter how well they are installed.  Historical accuracy would have demanded a metal ring with a hand sewn button hole around it.  No thank you!  I'll take the shortcut!

The rest of the bodice is sewn pretty much like a vest pattern, except I leave the open seam at the shoulders instead of the side seams for turning.  I can finish the seam edges with ribbon or bias tape and that cuts down on both a bulky seam, necessary hand sewing, and/or an awkward experience folding fabric under the sewing machine.
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Here is the front panel just placed on top so I could get an idea of the final look.
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The sleeves were fully interfaced and lined in two pieces. Ribbons with button holes and corresponding buttons held them in place.
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I sewed each piece flat, turned it, and whip stitched the underarm seam. This way if it was too tight I could do a lacing arrangement at the seam to allow for more room.
The photos I posted were in this order, so I'm sure I got to the point of getting the bodice done and took a break to work on the sleeves.  The skirt was relatively easy to do again.  Except for the tiny rolled hem at the front split.  I probably wanted to gather my courage before attempting that.  

But I did continue, and here is where my "floating lady" dress dummy set up came in handy. I could either cut the remaining length of sari fabric into panels for the skirt, or just gather one long edge, depending on how long the skirt needed to be.  I was praying and hoping that I didn't need to do panels, but a hoop skirt adds to the overall length.
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Hallelujah! I even had leftover as a "ruffle" at the top!
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I was so excited I had to try it with the front panel pinned on too!
Once again, I didn't want to cut the georgette when I didn't have to, so after a quick electronic convo with "L" we decided to leave it on as a ruffle at the top.  This does have some historical accuracy, as some ladies' doublets had a sort of short peplum.
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Adding the sleeves suddenly gave her attitude!
The main dress was done!!!!

I had a few other surprises though.  

The original dress listed on Etsy that I started from had the chemise sleeves gathered at the elbow, so I added some elastic "scrunchie" type things in case "L" wanted to take the outer sleeves off and push her sleeves up for work.  

No real Renaissance lady would be caught dead without a head covering of some kind, unless they were single and looking.  It's an oft-overlooked element that really adds to authenticity.  Fortunately I had a little of the fancy stuff left over and a bit of veil-type fabric in my stash.  

I also made a handbag, not pictured.  The white flower pin is a memorial item everyone in the Royal Court will be wearing.

Finally, and NOT historically accurate, I added a few hooks and eyes to the inside of the skirt to lift it up.  The event lawn is famous for cockleburrs and in case they are particularly bad this year I wanted to give "L" an opportunity to keep the nice fabric up out of the mud.
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You can see the embroidery hoop at the top that the hat is resting on. It is an Italian/French inspired hat, but not accurate to one time or place.
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I had one small internal question about how I attached the front panel flap.  It turned out not to work, as I suspected.  But this was after the first fitting, which meant I was in Wichita....near civilization...and near a JoAnn's fabric store!

What I wanted to use originally (and historically accurate!) was brass rings.  They're sold in the window covering/upholstery accessories section of the store and only come in brass.  But they're strong and the right size!  

I spent an evening sewing 24 of the little suckers on.  Great news is that they work perfectly!
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It looked fabulous at our dress rehearsal.  I hope it wears just as well through the faire in a couple of weeks!  

And I promise to actually take pictures of "L" in the dress. ;)
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A Dress for L - Part 2

4/10/2017

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Amateur cosplayers and ren faire goers are easily spotted by their lack of proper undergarments.  You see paintings and pictures of the outer most layers, of course.  And to be fair it takes a bit of research to find appropriate underclothes, but that's where I started on "L"'s dress.

​To keep costs at an absolute minimum I just used inexpensive percale flat sheets purchased from hotel suppliers on Amazon.  Seriously - if you can break away from the traditional fabric store format of 44" wide fabric, sheets are a fabulous way to go.  Some of the better ones are cut more on the grain than others, so I highly recommend taking out the hems and straightening the fabric right after washing in the hottest water possible. It may be plain, but these underclothes can undoubtedly take a rough beating and stand up to wear for years and years. 
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All the pieces cut out - including interfacing and "boning" strips. I have heat-erasable markers I used to label all the white pieces floating around. So much white!
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The hoops of this hoop skirt were fabric strips pieced separately. Here they are in concentric rings laying flat.
The original pattern I found for making a hoop skirt used a VERY LARGE rectangle with channels sewn in at intervals for the hoop insertion.  The hoop material I was using wouldn't stand up in a channel on its own; it was made to be sewn down to the fabric directly.  So, I though I'd use separate strips that were gathered at each level.  In the future I'm not sure I'd use this method again, but it worked out ok this time.
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As I got near the end this skirt threatened to swallow my little Singer more than once!
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Ta da! It's done and floating from my ceiling, as I needed to double check the length against the measurements I took earlier. This arrangement proved most useful later on...
I didn't take a picture of the top of my last-minute floating dress contraption, but the set up happened because I have a lower part of my ceiling that is covered duct work.  I was able to put a nail in the trim and suspend an embroidery hoop, which I then used to hang the hoop skirt at the right height for "L"'s actual measurements. I used heavy duty button thread actually sewn through the hoop skirt waistband and tied plus taped at the embroidery hoop at the top. The polyester sew-in boning needed time to adjust to the skirt and I didn't want to leave it flat on my floor.

​But on to the chemise.
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I laid out the fabric twice to make sure it was correct. The sleeves were originally positioned the wrong way, and the dimensions looked all wrong to me at first since this was the first time I had made the shirt length.
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But it was incredibly easy construction, even with pesky underarm gussets. The original instructions allowed for elastic in the neckline and wrist, but I knew that wasn't going to fly with sweat and heat. As usual the sleeves were on the short end but ok, something I'll have to note on my pattern instructions.
I had offered both the gathered raglan sleeve style above and a skinny arm version, and "L" chose the raglan sleeve.  It really does fit better around the arm, and allows for lovely poofy bits on the outfit later on.

Of all the pieces that make up a ren faire outfit, the underskirt is by far the easiest.  In fact, I recommend it to beginning tailors who are comfortable buying other elements of their costume. It was the final piece of "underwear" for this costume, and came together in just a couple of hours.

First, the chemise added to the outfit.
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I guesstimated the height from the bodice pieces and hung a hanger on a separate string from the nail in the ceiling. Surprisingly through all of this the trim on the ceiling duct didn't come crashing down!
There really aren't any construction photos of the underskirt, so here it is together on the floating thing.
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The skirt pieces and waistband. The skirt is cinched to the waist by two cords sewn directly on the waistband, which is ideally the hip measurement + 2 inches. (I forgot and it was a little tight on "L" but worked ok.) No need for elastic or button closure!
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I was actually a little worried that the hoops would show through, but the underskirt covered it all! There is an extra piece of hoop on the ground that was originally optional, but it became clear it would be needed so I sewed it in after everything else was done and I took it down.
There are two reasons I didn't build this on a dress dummy: 
1. Kate has my real dress dummy at her house still, while she works on other dresses.
2. That dress dummy is a plus size model and "L" is a size 6-8.  No way I can squeeze it down far enough!

After a while my contraption suspended from the ceiling became known as the "floating lady." It worked just fine as a stand in dress dummy and even doubled for the basement ghost for a while!  The dog kept walking underneath it, setting it twirling and spinning just out of the corner of my eye.  However, this is actually preferable to the dog laying on the incomplete dress, which certainly would have happened otherwise.  

​Next post will be the pretty stuff!
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