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Ladies in Red (part 1)

2/25/2020

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Well. Here we are again. 

After the completion of our most recent Renaissance dresses, the Blue Bee dresses, I asked Rachel if we had enough dresses for festivals and faires. What a silly question. 

Red seems to be the one color we haven't really explored, and is the other royal court color besides blue. We knew we wanted to stay away from a pink-red or orange-red. And after our forays into Italian and English styles, it was time to once again embrace our genetic heritage and go with a German style.
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I took the opportunity to sketch out the costume design digitally for the first time - usually I use a pencil. I'm happy with the way it turned out - for my first time. But (spoilers), about from the time I clicked "save", I knew I'd be making changes to the design. So be sure to keep up with the twists and turns on this one, as I know this will be a multiple-post project.

Rachel is fantastic at using unexpected, budget friendly fabric in her Renaissance dresses. But I wanted to take the excuse to be very deliberate (and, I'll admit it, "boojee"). Linen was an obvious choice, but I wanted it to be a bit lighter in weight than the blue linen we'd used before, and I was after a particular shade of red. As I live in an, ahem, "fabric desert", about the only way to achieve this is to order swatches from an online store first.

I wanted a near-tissue weight linen for the shirt, and a light-medium weight for the dress. After finding what I wanted from Fabric-Store.com (which specializes in linen) I took a picture of the fabric swatches with a fork as background to compare weight and color.
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One of the sheer options, and the black linen. The black linen was pretty much a given, but it doesn't hurt to have a sample before you order.
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The red, and the sheer white linen we decided to get.

​With so much money sunk into the linen - we're talking nice prom dress amount here - I wasn't going to go with a cheap ribbon trim that I could find at any fabric store. 

Rachel happened to find some beautiful trim made in India (thanks to her shopping for vintage Indian saris for their silk). The price was very reasonable for the design, width, and length. The edges are hand-finished! It will definitely change the look of the dress (and will rival the beautiful red linen for a focal point), but it makes me feel very fancy and elegant!
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This came from an Etsy store based in India that specializes in trim for saris called Shop of Embellishments
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I finally have the major pieces all together, and I can't wait! I think it'll be amazing!

The other item I bought for the new dresses is trimmer string. That's right - like for a weed eater. 

In researching what other costume makers are trying, I found a few blogs that mentioned that the plastic string from string trimmers has the same approximate tensile strength as the kind of reed that was sometimes used to stiffen bodices from my target time period. It should make for a very flexible stiffening with more movement than the traditional boning. I'm so excited to try and learn new things with this new project!
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Sources and Resources

4/4/2017

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As a librarian by day, I am no stranger to research and gathering information.  As a successful post graduate I also know once you think you've plumbed the depths of current information a new source pops up.

So, it was little to no surprise that my first serious foray into researching actual costume construction (instead of cobbling together my sewing skills, Pinterest, and general thriftiness) yielded no less than 12 books to source. There was no way in heck I was paying $25-$50 for each book from Amazon, though that is where I did my initial research to find them.  Inter-library loan to the rescue!

I've looked through 8 books so far, copied the pertinent pages, and even bought one that was particularly useful.  Or at least it had shiny colorful pages:
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Here are links to the others I've had the chance to look through and recommend:
  • Patterns of Fashion 3: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C. 1560-1620 by Janet Arnold
  • Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660  by Janet Arnold
  • Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1500-1800 by Jean Hunnisett
  • Historic Costumes and How to Make Them by Mary Fernald
  • The Mode in Footwear by R. Turner Wilcox
  • The Mode in Hats and Headdress by R. Turner Wilcox
However, these resources are not for the beginner or faint of heart.  They aren't even for those who have less than a dearth of patience and/or time to actually learn, self-directed, from a book. I have a feeling I'll be using them quite a bit in the future to make dresses more historically accurate, but I didn't have them before I started on "L"'s dress.

Besides, I believe in my last blog post I said I would post sources for "L"'s actual purple dress. So, below is a complete list of where I got materials, patterns, and inspiration for that particular dress.
Fabric: 
ValueVintage sellers on Amazon have cotton, silk, and synthetic blend saris, dupattas, trim, and more. I have found several saris from them in the past.
ImperialAntiqueArt on Amazon has a similar selection as above. Sari pictured at right is what I purchased from them for Liza's dress.
Hotel Sheet Suppliers on Amazon vary in price from time to time.  Here's two I've purchased from:
UnionHospitality
Weekender

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Materials:
Shoestring is used for lacing up the corset.  It does stretch some over time but is sturdy.
Metal Rings can be used for hidden lacings that need to lie flat.
Polyester Boning is best for light weight hoop skirts, but is too flimsy for a boned corset. With this style a couple extra hoops are necessary in the skirt.
Zip Ties at their largest are best for corset boning.

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Patterns:
Italian Bodice Pattern from a now closed corner of the Western Michigan University website.
Raglan Sleeve Chemise from the same above website.
Hoop Skirt Pattern originally intended for Civil War reenactors, but usable here. 
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And believe it or not, that was the end of my inspiration online. The rest came as I was sewing.  I really was copying another dress I had so it was pretty easy.  And yes! The dress is done!  I'll be doing a series of posts next on how that went.  Hopefully after that comes updates on my husband's doublet.  We've had illnesses and family deaths, so things are going a bit slower there. In the mean time, here's a preview of the purple dress reborn: 
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